San Felipe Baja California Travel Guide: Know Before You Go
San Felipe is a small shrimping town on the Sea of Cortez, two hours south of the Mexicali border crossing, and it is the easiest taste of Baja you can get from the US side. I stopped here on my long Baja road trip, and I will be straight with you: it was not my favorite town on the peninsula. But that is exactly why this guide is useful. San Felipe is not trying to be Cabo.
It is a place for a slow beach weekend, fish tacos on the malecón, a desert full of giant cacti, and some of the warmest swimming water in Mexico, and judged on those terms it delivers.
This guide covers how to get here, how safe the drive really is, what is actually worth your time, and where to stay and eat, all from my own visit plus what has changed since.
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Where Is San Felipe?
San Felipe sits on the northwest coast of the Sea of Cortez in the state of Baja California, 120 miles (about 2 hours) south of the Mexicali border crossing on Highway 5. From San Diego, count on 4.5 to 5 hours via Calexico; from Ensenada, about 3 hours across the peninsula. It is the closest Sea of Cortez beach town to the US border, which is exactly why it fills up with Californian plates on holiday weekends.
How to Get to San Felipe, Baja California
Getting to San Felipe is not difficult, but it does require some planning and preparation as it’s kind of remote if you come from the South as I did.
If you are flying into Baja, the best option would be to take a flight to Tijuana International Airport, and then take a bus or a car to San Felipe.
There are several bus companies that operate on this route, via Mexicali, Baja California Capital City.
Another popular option is to drive your own car in Baja California as part of a road trip.
Many people choose to visit San Felipe by driving along the coast of the Sea of Cortez and stopping at other charming towns and attractions along the way.
If that sounds like your thing, you can start your road trip from San Diego or even Phoenix and enjoy the stunning views and diverse landscapes of Baja California.
Or you can fly to Tijuana or Mexicali and rent a car from there. I recommend using DiscoverCars.com to find the best deals in Mexico.
The drive from Mexicali is on Highway 5, and it is a good road: paved, four lanes for most of the stretch, about two hours door to door. Expect at least one military checkpoint along the way. They are routine; be polite, answer the questions, let them look in the trunk, and you are moving again in five minutes.
The usual Baja rules apply: cross the border with Mexican car insurance arranged in advance, fill the tank in Mexicali, and do not drive the highway at night, not because of crime specifically but because of unlit cattle, unmarked shoulders, and zero services.
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Is it Safe to drive to San Felipe?
In general, the northernmost part of Baja California is considered kind of a hot zone, so you need to take your precautions.
I did drive from San Felipe to Ensenada and everything went perfectly okay and the views were spectacular, despite the bad weather.
However, things happen, so make sure you are cautious and follow good practices, especially NEVER driving on that road at night.
Below are a few precautions you might want to take. Make sure you read them.
🚘 Before embarking on the trip, make sure that your car has enough gas and is in good enough condition for a 5-hour road trip (assuming you’re coming from San Diego). Check your tire pressure often!
🚘 Never, ever drive at night!
🚘 Check the weather forecast in advance and only take the Baja California road trip if the conditions are clear.
🚘 Avoid taking the road trip at night. Not only is there much less traffic at night on these roads, but the road conditions also aren’t good in some stretches, increasing the risk of accidents.
🚘 You will encounter military checkpoints along the way, where you’ll be asked to stop and show your documents. Keep the relevant documents handy (such as your driver’s license and passport).
🚘 If you’re taking jewelry or any other valuables with you, keep them hidden. Petty crimes like pickpocketing and car break-ins can happen, and flashing valuables will increase the risk.
🚘 If you are traveling from Ensenada to San Felipe, keep in mind that it’s not one of the safest areas, and although it’s okay to drive during the day, which I did, absolutely avoid the night.
When I asked the military police if it was ok, they told me that during the night it’s easy to get assaulted. So please avoid that!
🚘 A dash camera will give you extra security.
Is San Felipe Safe?
The town of San Felipe is a very safe place to visit. It is a charming fishing town on the eastern coast of Baja California that is far away from the major crime hotspots in Mexico.
The town attracts many tourists and ex-pats from the US and other countries, and there is not much danger other than the usual petty crimes that happen everywhere around the world.
You can significantly reduce the risk of even those petty crimes by following these tips:
📌 Avoid being flashy. As I mentioned before, don’t wear expensive jewelry, clothes, or accessories that might attract unwanted attention.
Don’t carry large amounts of cash or show it in public. Use a pickpocket-proof money belt or a secure wallet to store your valuables.
Whenever you’re going out, only carry enough cash to last the day and a little bit extra.
📌 If you drive to San Felipe or are renting a car, make sure to park your car in a well-lit and secure area, preferably with a guard or surveillance.
Don’t leave any valuables or documents in your car. Lock your doors and windows when you leave your car.
📌 Keep in touch with loved ones. Let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return.
Keep your phone charged and have a local SIM card or roaming service. Save the local emergency numbers and have them handy in case of an emergency.
📌 Learn some basic Spanish phrases. You never know when it might come in handy.
📌 Don’t walk through dark and deserted areas at night, especially if you’re alone.
📌 Don’t leave your valuables unattended at any time, even if you’re in a crowded place. As I’ve said earlier, petty crime does occur in San Felipe.
📌 Last, but not least, stay aware of your surroundings. If you suddenly feel unsafe for any reason, it’s best to get out of that situation as quickly as possible.
When is the Best Time to Travel to San Felipe?
The best months for San Felipe are October through April, when days sit in the comfortable 20s C (70s and low 80s F) and the water stays warm enough to swim. Winter is the American snowbird season, and the town is at its liveliest without being crowded.
Skip the summer if you can. From June to September, temperatures regularly pass 40°C (104°F), the town slows to a crawl, and the sea gets bathwater warm without the air ever cooling off. If summer is your only window, plan beach time for early morning and live in the pool by noon.
Two dates worth building a trip around: the San Felipe 250 off-road race in late March, which takes over the whole town (book months ahead or stay away that weekend, there is no in-between), and the Festival del Camarón, the shrimp festival on the malecón in early November, which is the best eating weekend of the year.
Things to Do in San Felipe, Baja California
1. Walk the Malecón at Sunset
The malecón is San Felipe’s living room: a long waterfront promenade with the fishermen’s monument, the town sign for your photo, seafood restaurants on one side and the beach on the other. Come when the heat breaks in the late afternoon and half the town shows up with you. This is also where the town’s shrimp obsession lives; San Felipe built its name on shrimping, and ordering it here at least once a day is not excessive, it is respect.
2. Pick Your Beach
San Felipe has a great long stretch of beach right by the malecón, great for a long walk, a swim, or a boat trip. And the beaches here come in every volume level. The main public beach by the malecón is the lively one, with families, music, and vendors.
Playa Hermosa is the middle ground with moderate activity.
Playa Blanca has calm waves and is made for doing absolutely nothing. And if you want to hear only the tide, Laguna Percebú, 18 to 20 miles southeast of town, is a quiet, unspoiled stretch where the shallow lagoon warms up like a bath.
One thing to know about this coast: the tide swings here are dramatic, so the beach you see at noon can be twice as wide by evening.
3. Take a Fishing Trip
San Felipe offers a variety of fishing options for anglers of all levels and preferences. You can go out for flounder, grouper, snapper, or amberjack, on anything from a local panga to a cruiser, and the guides provide rods, reels, tackle, bait, license, and ice. Book with one of the local operators at the malecón or through your hotel the day before; going with someone who knows these waters is the difference between a boat ride and a cooler full of fish.
4. Go Kayaking
Kayaking is a great way to explore the calm and clear waters of the Gulf of California, and mornings are best, before the wind picks up. You can rent kayaks in town or join a guided paddle; I recommend the guided option, because half the fun in kayaking lies in knowing the best places to do it, and the local guides do.
5. Take a Tour of the Valle de los Gigantes
The Valle de los Gigantes, the Valley of the Giants, is a desert valley about 14 miles south of town that hosts some of the largest cacti in the world: cardones over 18 meters tall, weighing 20+ tons, many of them centuries old. Standing under them recalibrates your sense of scale.
I went with CG Glamping and enjoyed it very much; the tour takes about 3 hours in total. You can also drive yourself: the entrance is 200 pesos per vehicle, cash only, and the sandy track inside is best with something higher than a sedan. If you are not confident in sand, take the tour. Photographer’s note: go in the last two hours of daylight, when the low sun turns the cacti gold and throws shadows longer than the giants themselves.
6. Soak in the Puertecitos Hot Springs
Puertecitos is a small town on the coast of the Sea of Cortez, about 80 kilometers (an hour and a half drive) south of San Felipe, with one strange and wonderful attraction: natural hot springs that bubble up between the rocks right at the tide line. The pools are pockets where geothermal water mixes with seawater, which means they are only the right temperature in a window around low tide, when the mix balances out. Check the tide table before you drive down.
The mineral water is said to have healing properties for skin conditions, arthritis, and stress. The sulfur smell can be strong, but it is not harmful. There is a small entrance fee, and almost no services in Puertecitos, so bring water, snacks, and everything else you need.
7. Take a Boat to Konsag Island
That white rock on the horizon you keep noticing from the malecón is Isla Konsag, a seabird and sea lion colony about 17 miles offshore. Local captains run morning trips out, for fishing or just for the wildlife, and on a calm day it is the best few hours on the water San Felipe offers. Ask at the malecón or through your hotel the day before; seas are calmest early.
8. Ride the Dunes
This is off-road country, home of the San Felipe 250, and the desert around town is open for playing. ATV and side-by-side rentals are available in town by the hour or the day, and the dunes and washes give you room to learn. If you have never driven one, take the guided option; the desert is more fun when it is not eating your rental deposit.
9. Time Your Trip Around an Event
Two dates change the whole character of the town. The San Felipe 250 off-road race in late March takes over everything: book months ahead or avoid that weekend entirely, there is no in-between. And the Festival del Camarón, the shrimp festival on the malecón in early November, is the best eating weekend of the year, when the town celebrates the thing it does best.
Where to Stay in San Felipe
🛏 CG Glamping
CG Glamping offers an urban oasis for its guests, with themed accommodations that reflect an eclectic and avant-garde aesthetic.
Christian and his wife built this place from scratch and put their own creativity and passion into it offering their guests personalized attention.
The hotel staff prides itself on prioritizing the well-being of its guests, making them feel at home while enjoying the experience of San Felipe with all the necessary luxuries for a comfortable stay.
They also sell delicious chees in their little shop together with other goodies and they can organize customized tours for you.
🛏 Hotel Las Palmas
Hotel Las Palmas is a unique resort in San Felipe that offers history, hospitality, and amazing views.
It’s a family business and the hotel is built in a traditional hacienda style, with patios, gardens, and fountains that create a charming atmosphere.
You can see his photos and memorabilia at the hotel, and taste his legacy of delicious food at the hotel’s restaurant.
The hotel is situated on a hill 250 yards from the beach, which gives you a breathtaking view of the Sea of Cortez and the desert mountains behind town.
You can also walk to the town center and explore the local shops and attractions.
Where to Eat in San Felipe
🍽 Alfredo’s Restaurant at Las Palmas Hotel
If you are looking for a place to enjoy authentic Italian cuisine with a touch of Mexican flair, look no further than Alfredo’s Restaurant at Las Palmas Hotel.
Alfredo’s Restaurant is named after Alfredo Bellinghieri, the creator of the original fettucini Alfredo sauce.
His creamy, nutmeg-tinged Alfredo sauce is pretty much universally loved.
Here, you can savor the same delicious sauce and other dishes made with fresh ingredients and local produce.
Whether you choose to dine indoors or outdoors, you will be treated to a spectacular view of the Sea of Cortez and the mountains.
You will also enjoy the friendly service and the cozy atmosphere that make Alfredo’s Restaurant a favorite among locals and visitors alike.
🍽 La Vaquita
If you are looking for a place to enjoy fresh seafood, friendly service, and a relaxing atmosphere, you might want to check out La Vaquita restaurant.
Their menu features a variety of options, from fish tacos to ceviche to lobster and octopus, all prepared in the Mexican style.
You can also order grilled meats, salads, soups, and desserts.
It is easily one of the best seafood and Mexican restaurants in the area, making it an easy recommendation for one of my must-try places.
I ate a delicious seafood soup whose taste I still remember. 🙂
🍽 El Kikiriki
El Kikiriki is another great place to enjoy authentic Mexican food (and you can never have too much of that).
It’s a small, family-owned joint close to the Malecon, which is perfect because you get to enjoy their heavenly food with stunning views.
They’re famous for their tacos, which I highly recommend you try.
And best of all, it’s a place that won’t break the bank, the food is cheap but so delicious it’ll have you licking your fingers and asking for seconds.
What to Pack for San Felipe
So far so good, right? But before you hop on a plane or drive across the border, let’s make sure you have everything you need for your trip.
Here is a packing list for the things you will need.
✔️ Plenty of sunscreen and a hat. The climate in San Felipe is mostly sunny (that’s why you’re going there), which means you’ll need a lot of sunscreen; sunburns are not fun, guys.
Also, the sun can also get quite intense so make sure you also take a hat with you.
✔️ Swimwear and beach towel. The town is famous for its wide sandy beaches and warm, enjoyable seawater.
You can swim, snorkel, kayak, jet ski, or just relax on the shore. Bring your swimwear and a beach towel so you don’t miss out on all the fun.
✔️ Light clothing. You don’t need to dress up too much. Light clothing made of cotton or linen is ideal for the usual weather in San Felipe.
You can wear shorts, t-shirts, dresses, or skirts. Sandals are also comfortable and easy to wear. Avoid wearing dark colors or synthetic fabrics that can make you sweat more.
If you’re visiting in December or January, you might need to pack a jacket and warm trousers for those chilly nights.
✔️ Local currency. You can use US dollars or Mexican pesos in San Felipe, but it’s better to carry local currency.
You can exchange money at banks or ATMs in town, but the fees and exchange rates they give you aren’t good.
Some restaurants and businesses will also accept USD/GBP/EUR, but they’ll charge you 10-20% more as compared to using pesos.
So yeah, make sure you’re carrying enough pesos for the duration of your trip.
✔️ Insulated water bottle. Make sure to bring your trusty insulated water bottle with you, or buy one if you don’t have it.
It’ll be really helpful when you’re out and about and get thirsty. Plus, you’ll help the environment by not having to use plastic bottles.
✔️ First aid kit. This one goes doubly for you if you’re the adventurous type.
Bring a first aid kit with you to treat common injuries and illnesses like cuts, scrapes, bruises, insect bites, headaches, upset stomachs, allergies, etc.
Just make sure that if you’re bringing prescription drugs, you also have proper documentation for them.
How Many Days Do I Need in San Felipe?
This is a super common question that people often wonder about, I recommend spending 3-4 days in San Felipe if you want to experience the best this city has to offer.
If you’re short on budget, then 2 days will pretty much cover all the highlights of the city.
However, if you have more time (and your budget allows it), you can spend up to 6-7 days here and have a great time; you can take your time exploring all the activities, history, sights, and food that San Felipe can offer you.
Remember, there’s no universal answer to this question. It all depends on how much you like San Felipe, what kind of activities you enjoy, how many days you have, and, of course, your budget.
San Felipe Travel Guide: Final Thoughts
San Felipe is a wonderful destination for travelers who want to experience the best of both worlds: the stunning beauty of the Sea of Cortez and the rugged charm of the Baja California desert.
We covered a lot of ground in this article, including things to do, places to stay, and which restaurants are a must-visit in San Felipe.
In short, the city is a place where you can create unforgettable memories and discover new horizons.
In your next vacation, don’t miss this opportunity to visit one of the most amazing places in Mexico.
You’ll definitely be amazed by this charming city and all it has to offer!
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