Oaxaca Día de Muertos 2026: Dates, Cemeteries and What It Costs

If there is one Mexican cultural event or tradition that has become exponentially famous worldwide, it is, without question, Oaxaca Day of the Dead – Mexico – El día de los Muertos celebrations. 

As a Mexican born and raised, and a local tour guide who has experienced the Day of the Dead in many regions of Mexico, including Oaxaca, I will tell you everything about it in this post.

You will learn about Day of the Dead Symbolism and traditions, why it is such an important day in Mexican Culture, the difference between saints’ days and the following ones, and how to plan your trip to Oaxaca during this incredible time of year.

HEADS UP – If you are planning to travel to Oaxaca during the Day of the Dead in 2026, you need to hurry and book your accommodation right now, hoping it’s not too late. The most affordable and nicest places fill up very soon.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting my small business.

What is the Oaxaca Day of the Dead? 

In my experience, the Oaxaca Day of the Dead tradition is one of the best representations of the syncretism that occurred when the two cultures “collided”.

Indigenous culture and Hispanic traditions clashed many centuries ago. 

Oaxaca City dresses up in an abundance of public displays full of color, sounds, and scents that stimulate travelers’ senses at every step and corner. 

Day Of the Dead Oaxaca Full Program

Oaxaca City at a glance

Oaxaca City is the capital of the homonymous state in southern Mexico.

It is one of the most beautiful and interesting cities in Mexico, made even more special by the abundance of cultural expressions from the state’s different regions that converge here.

This is one of the main reasons why it has earned the UNESCO World Heritage Site badge. 

Its history is reflected in the archeological site and indigenous cultures from the ancestral past. As well as the arrival of the Spaniards and the deep transformation of the region and of the native Oaxacans’ lives.

It tells stories about the political life in Mexico and the tales of indigenous men who became presidents of this country.

Also about a place that has contributed enormously to the preservation of the customs and traditions of the indigenous people not only of Oaxaca but of the country as a whole. 

Its culture speaks about diversity in gastronomy, music, language, costume, celebrations, and traditions. 

What Day of the Dead means to Mexicans

To talk about the Day of the Dead for Mexico as a whole means that we have to travel to a time when it wasn’t Mexico yet.

Pre-Hispanic “Mexico” refers to the period before 1519 – 1521.

The pre-Hispanic history that precedes today’s “Día de Muertos” speaks about the worldview of the cultures of those times in regard to the cycles of life and death, not only for humans but for gods and nature too. 

For ancestral cultures, everything in life was in constant transformation, so transformation was eternal. Everything could be created or destroyed, but there was always something in motion, and they saw it as a vital force. 

According to many interpretations, pre-Hispanic Mexican religiosity was closely tied to the concept of life and death as a permanent cycle; within their rituals, both represented happiness and should be constantly honored and celebrated. 

For the pre-Hispanic cultures, death was a destination, and so, names were given to the places where the dead would go, like “Mictlán” in the Nahuatl culture and “Xibalbá” in the Mayan Culture, to mention some.

In these destinations, the dead were guests of their Gods and guardians, and morality or worldly behavior had nothing to do with them being welcomed or not. These destinations have never had anything to do with the Christian “hell” either.

For ancient cultures, the journey to these destinations was magical, so the living performed rituals that helped the dead on their path. 

There are traces that date back to 1200 B. C that is proof of the cult of the dead: “Funeral offerings” that included many elements like water, food, masks, skeletons, jewelry, vases, figurines, shells, etc. 

The interpretation is that each element had a purpose, from a mask or figurine representing a deity to food as an expression of life. 

The Spaniards found all of the above when they arrived and “conquered” the existing pre-Hispanic cultures. They witnessed the religiosity and rituals of the indigenous peoples of the time. 

It is then that their Christian worldview collides with the Mesoamerican one, and so, them being the “conquerors” of the territory, became the conquerors of the spiritual life of the natives as well. 

The “spiritual” domination was done through the process of evangelism, which resulted in the syncretic culture of today’s Mexico. 

So, through a very long and complex process, the pre-Hispanic religiosity and honoring of death “adopted” or “incorporated” the new elements of Christianity, which resulted in today’s Mexico “Day of the Dead”

Today, the celebration corresponds with the saint’s day and souls’ day of the Gregorian calendar, and it is done in general as follows: 

November 1st: this is the day when “Todos Santos” (Saints’ Day) is expected. This is the day for kids to arrive

November 2nd: called the “fieles difuntos” day and this is when all the adults are expected. 

Dates prior to November 1st are dedicated to women who died giving birth, people who died by drowning or kids who died without baptism. 

As we can see, this tradition is deeply connected to the indigenous roots of every Mexican in the country and to our identity. That is why it is so important to protect and preserve it as authentically as possible. 

Sources: UAM.MX / UNESCO / Secretaría de Cultura de Mexico. 

When is Day of the Dead in Mexico?

In Mexico, the “Day of the Dead” dates vary a bit. In some places, people celebrate it from the 28th; some from October 31st; and some only celebrate November 1st and November 2nd. 

But for many indigenous people, where this celebration is still widely observed, the celebration begins when the first seed of corn is sown. 

Why celebrate Día de Muertos in Oaxaca?

The state of Oaxaca is divided into 8 “cultural regions” that are very rich in traditions, gastronomy, religiosity, crafts, etcetera.

And Oaxaca City has, for a long time, gathered all the cultural riches of these regions through all kinds of celebrations and manifestations. So, if you want a real understanding of what the tradition is really about for the people, Oaxaca City is one of the places to be. 

Oaxaca Day of the Dead Traditions and Symbols

As we mentioned before, Día de los Muertos” in Mexico is a tradition that comes from pre-Hispanic times and has evolved to what it is today due to the syncretism of 2 cultures and also modernity, but its importance is directly related to the fact that it still presents many of the original elements and symbols of the past.

So today we might have a photo, but back then we had a figurine.

Today we have incense sticks, but back then we had clay or stone incense burners.

And the craziest one of them all: before we had real body bones and blood, today we have sweet bread. 🙂

Also, this is an ancestral tradition from all of Mesoamerica, so all the elements mentioned are present everywhere, but manifested or used in different forms. Some regions also have specific elements, like Oaxaca.

We have 8 cultural regions, and so, each one of these regions follows the tradition in very diverse ways. 

Day of the Dead in Oaxaca 2026: the dates

Día de Muertos 2026 falls on Sunday 1 November and Monday 2 November. Neither is a public holiday in Mexico, which surprises people.

But in Oaxaca, the celebration is not two days. It runs from the end of October, and the nights matter more than the days.

2026 works out well. The 31st falls on a Saturday and the 1st and 2nd on Sunday and Monday, so the three biggest nights land on a long weekend. Expect the city to be fuller than usual, and expect the cemeteries to be busiest on the night of Saturday the 31st.

One thing almost no guide tells you: the muerteada season does not end on 2 November. The Etla villages keep going for another week, and the last one is usually Villa de Etla around the 8th or 9th. If you cannot get accommodation for the peak nights, that is a real alternative.

The official state programme for 2026 is not out yet. Sectur Oaxaca published the 2025 cartelera on 8 October and it carried more than 140 events. Expect the 2026 version in the first week of October. I will update this post when it lands.

Day of the Dead symbols in Oaxaca

The Day of the Dead altars

Among the celebration’s symbols and icons, offerings in the form of altars are the centerpiece of the tradition.

Altar elements vary from family homes to villages, states, or regions; you can find altars ranging from simple to very elaborate, but the concept is timeless.

The altar is the door to the dead realm. The altar represents all the elements of the cycle of life and death.

Colorful altars include different elements, and each has a role to play. It’s very important to mention that there are many “types” of altars.

These sometimes reflect the age, gender, and even the circumstances of the person’s death. Socially, the altar’s size matters too.

A bigger altar shows the wealth, status, or importance of the person in a community or in the family. (and it doesn’t necessarily have to do with the money a family has)

Also, the altars have “tiers,” and the largest one has 9 tiers.

Tiers are said to represent heaven and earth when there are 2.

When 3, we have purgatory as well.  7: It is said that these are the 7 capital sins.

9 is said to represent the stages of the deceased’s journey to get to the dead souls’ realm.

Again, it all depends on the family, the village, or the region. 

On the Day of the Dead, offerings

The offerings in their origin were presented in the form of the “fruits” given by the seeds sown during the harvests. The offerings represent the sharing nature of the people and gratitude for what’s given, as well as some form of “fearful respect” to comply with the expectations of our dead returning.

These are part of the altar or the decoration of the tombstones. 

Corn, fruits, seeds, and tortillas represent what belongs to the year’s harvest.

The favorite food and drinks of the deceased family member symbolize the love and respect shown to the soul of our dead.

If the soul coming back is a kid, we also put out candies. If our visitor used to drink or smoke, then it is expected that we place cigarettes or the spirit of choice (even if they died from heavy drinking or lung cancer.

Another fun fact is that indigenous communities drink a lot of Coca-Cola, so it is not uncommon to find Coca-Cola on the altar. 

Mole, enchiladas, mole tamales, and hen broth: these foods are found specifically in Oaxaca because they belong to the region. 

Oaxacan sweets and candies

With so many regions and their own culinary traditions, even the variety of sweets and candies won’t disappoint.

Pan de Muerto

However, Pan de Muerto is among the sweets of the altar and offerings, of course, but an element that all Mexicans, not only Oaxacans, expect all year.

The tradition is to get together with family in October and November to eat it with a hot cup of chocolate.

The importance of the Pan de Muerto, though, comes as well from pre-Hispanic times, and there are several interpretations of what it was back then.

What we do know is that corn and amaranth seeds were used and given different shapes.

There are legends that say that the hearts of sacrificed princesses were placed on the altars, and so, when the Spanish saw the ritual, they banned it completely, and the heart-shaped bread took its place.

Another version of the Pan de Muerto origin is that it was made to represent the women who died giving birth to their first child. 

Sugar skulls

Also amongst the sweets, we find all types and sizes of sugar skulls. The original ones are just sugar but we now have amaranth seed and chocolate skulls. 

During pre-hispanic times, it is said that the different cultures displayed publicly the skulls of the sacrificed warriors, princesses, and people in general as an honor, as a cult.

This ritual is called “tzompantli” in central Mexico, and so, of course, this was something else that the Spanish banned and the sugar skulls came to be what started being used. 

Marigold flowers

In México, this flower is called “cempasúchil”. The word is from the indigenous Nahuatl language and it is said to mean: 20 flowers.

The use of flowers in the altar and offerings according to researchers, seems to be part of the already catholic times as bringing flowers to their deceased was more a European tradition.

Still, there is a version that explains its relationship with the Day of the Dead through a young love/tragedy legend.

It is said that the young boy and warrior died in a battle, and so, the broken-hearted girl prayed to be joined with her love in eternity, and the gods answered her prayer by turning her into a beautiful flower.

The legend says that the flower remained closed for a long time until a hummingbird came to her attracted by her scent, and it was when the hummingbird placed itself on the petals that the beautiful yellow flower opened up and so, it is said that the bird was her love that had taken that form to come back to see her.

It is the scent of the flower that is believed to attract our families’ souls.  

Very important, flowers are a representation of the earth as one of the elements of our planet. 

A glass of water

It is part of the representation of the 4 elements of earth, as well as an offering to the traveler’s soul for their arrival to quench their thirst. 

Papel Picado

Color is very important in this tradition as well as the representation of the natural elements, so, the “papel picado” (cut decorated sheets of a soft type of paper hanging from the ceilings, doors, and altars) represents the air. 

Candles

Candles are very important in the vigil ritual; they represent fire as an element of nature and, of course, light the path for visiting souls. 

Photos of the deceased

Of as many as the family has. Of course, the altars and offerings are in their honor. 

Copal (Incense)

Attracting the souls of our families is important, and so it is done with scents, colors, flavors, and sounds. Incense is part of that ritual as well, but because it is used in religious practices, it is also used to clean and purify the path and keep the bad spirits or energies away. 

Arches

The altars, home entrances, and other spaces have arches made of sugar cane, leaves, and flowers. The arches represent the entrance to the underworld. 

Deity images

Images such as the Virgen de Guadalupe are placed to represent the faith professed in the family home. 

Flowers, seeds, or limestone paths and crosses: the paths and the crosses represent the 4 cardinal points. 

Salt

Salt is known for its purifying properties for the visitor’s soul. 

Toys

Toys are placed on the altars in the case of dead children, while for the adult we place something that they liked while living, toys represent the same thing for kids altars.

La Catrina

This is the very famous, elegant dressed skeleton. Found all over Mexico in all colors and shapes. Her original name is “calavera garbancera” and she was created originally in black and white by a cartoonist, Jose Guadalupe Posada.

He created it as a satire to make fun of the families that denied their indigenous roots and pretended to be from privileged classes.

It was the muralist Diego Rivera who gave her a full body and full color on his mural called “Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central”. (Dream of a Sunday afternoon in central Alameda). 

Comparsas and muerteadas, the dance parades

This is a centuries-old tradition. There are many explanations for why they are done, but the simplest way to explain it is that there is joy being lived by the families due to the return of their ancestors, and so jumping, dancing, singing, and playing the instruments is a way to express such joy.

The costumes play 2 or 3 roles. In one, they represent the countries, states, or even the village’s circumstances or anecdotes.

Also, they represent the people involved in the life and death cycle: priests, skeletons, the devil, and spirits. And, lastly, the disguise serves to hide them from death.

The muerteada is like a carnival or a parade in which all the neighborhoods of the town participate.

The neighbors follow the live band throughout the streets, and then, the several groups of bands and people “collide” into what turns out to be a “dance-off” until one of the sides “gives up” and continues the parade.

There are families that offer food or money for the live band to go into their house to honor their dead. It is a very grandiose event.

Comparsas usually happen on the 1st and 2nd of November in the villages, but through the city, many local businesses and neighborhoods create their own. It is a big commitment and honor to organize one. They are very costly too!

The decoration of the graveyards and the vigil

The vigil at the graveyards is the exact moment in which the people feel and honor the presence of their dead souls back with them.

That is the moment in which, in our minds and hearts, our family has come back.

That is why families pray, sing, even bring mariachi, tell jokes, talk about their loved ones, share food, drinks, and mezcal, and keep the tombstone beautiful. The vigil starts the night of the 31st of October and ends the morning of the 1st of November. 

Hand-made sand tapestries

The tapestries are usually made by the “rezadores” (people dedicated to praying for the gone souls). It is also a very old tradition, and it represents the portal between life and death.

These are made after the vigil and the muerteadas. These are a way to say goodbye to the visitors from the underworld. They are made of sand as a representation of the catholic saying “dust to dust”. 

Graveyards to visit during Day of the Dead in Oaxaca

In my experience, there are several graveyards to visit during the Day of the Dead festivities. 

You can visit local cemeteries in Oaxaca City, like the “Panteón General,” or travel to some of the smaller villages.

Below, I am going to share a few of the most popular.

Santa María de Atzompa

It’s famous for the tall candles used by the deceased’s family members. The vigil there starts the night of the 31st of October and ends the morning of the 1st of November.

This is a very big graveyard, and its main characteristic is that there are not many tombstones, but mainly dirt mounds.

The sight is mesmerizing and breathtaking. Most of the light comes from candles.

At Atzompa, there is also very loud music that comes from a live band, greeting locals and travelers alike. 

El Panteón nuevo de Xoxocotlán (known as Xoxo) (you say Ho-Ho)

This is a much smaller graveyard, with more stone tombs. At the “end” of the cemetery, there is a chapel where Mass is performed, as well as live music. 

El Panteón general de Oaxaca

The general cemetery of Oaxaca was closed between 2017 and 2019 after a major earthquake. It was damaged, and it posed a risk to people. It reopened, but what is more famous is the beautiful candle niches on the wall, which make it look solemn and beautiful. 

Getting to the cemeteries, and when to go

None of the three cemeteries charges an entry fee, and none of them requires a ticket. They have opening hours, and those shift a little every year.

For 2026, expect roughly this. Panteón General in the city, 07:00 to about 22:00 on 1 and 2 November. Xoxocotlán, from 07:00 on 31 October and running through the night of the 1st. Atzompa: the vigil starts on the night of 31 October and ends on the morning of the 1st. Check locally the week you arrive, because the municipality publishes the hours late.

A taxi from the center of Oaxaca to Xoxocotlán or Atzompa costs around 150 to 220 pesos each way. Agree on the fare before you get in and arrange your ride back before you go, because at two in the morning outside a village cemetery you will not find one waiting.

Go to Atzompa first, then Xoxocotlán. Atzompa has the tall candles and almost no electric light, and it’s best early in the night. Xoxo gets the tour buses.

Do not arrive at 10 pm expecting the peak. Families start arriving in the late afternoon of the 31st to clean and decorate. It’s fullest between about 8pm and midnight, and after that it is most beautiful and least crowded.

Three cemeteries is not the whole list. Xochimilco, San Felipe del Agua, the Panteón del Ex Marquesado and San Antonino Castillo Velasco all hold vigils too, and all of them see a fraction of the visitors that Xoxo does.

Oaxaca Day of the Dead Itinerary (DIY)

I have personally experienced the Day of the Dead celebrations in Oaxaca City 4 times, and here is where I speak highly about my colleague Ivan and his travel agency Trez Travel, and for magnificent, private, more high-end tours, the fantastic guide Gabriel Sanchez.

Now, in terms of an itinerary, please do yourself a favor and arrive at least a couple of days before the 28th of October, which will allow you to do other activities unrelated to the Día de Muertos festivities, book your dinners if you haven’t done so, find your costume and basically, prepare.

If you didn’t organize any tours in advance, you can check with your hotel or the local travel agencies for private drivers or guides to take you to the muerteadas and the cemeteries that are located away from the city. 

Now let’s see how to plan your itinerary day by day.

28th of October: this is the day where you take your walking shoes, your camera and start looking for all the altars being set up at local businesses, markets, restaurants, museums, and more.

Also, I highly recommend you to go to the Benito Juarez market, the 20 de Noviembre market and el Mercado de Abastos.

You will see all the local people selling and buying everything needed for their altars, offerings, and family meals. It’s a treat, and if done carefully and respectfully, a fantastic time for travel photography. 

29th of October: start looking at your face-painting options. Go to the main zocalo and look at ideas and designs. Also, check out the type of paint they are using.

By this day, the altars are ready, and usually, the main 8 regions’ altars are ready. Go and check those out. Galleries and museums usually have photography or painting exhibitions that are allusive to the special festivities. 

30th of October: continue walking the city and make sure you visit the chocolate and Pan de Muerto fair, usually located by the municipal palace.

Lots of open-air events start happening, like local plays, music, and performances.

Maybe they are in Spanish and you will not understand, but observing the local traditions is always very rewarding. 

31st of October: a plethora of events start happening today. Choose wisely as this is the day that you must go to experience the vigils at Xoxo and Atzompa.

The party starts picking up in the city, but remember, do it AFTER you return from the vigils. Very important if you didn’t hire a tour to take you there.

1st of November: this is the day you get your face painted and head out to the Etla valley for a muerteada. Read the section below on San Agustín Etla before you decide which village to go to, because the rules there changed and joining in costs money. Make sure you have your own mezcal bottle and a bamboo shot (no plastic, please).

Get to the village and join the parade. Make sure you share mezcal and take pictures with all the locals in their fantastic costumes.

And of course jump and dance! If you are in a group, make sure you keep an eye on each other as it is super easy to get separated.

Don’t bring much money with you, just some small change, enough to get you bathroom use, more drinks or maybe a local snack. Again, if you didn’t go on a tour, make sure that you have a taxi driver waiting for you and with whom you set the place to meet.

For safety I recommend you stay at the muerteada as late as midnight. Ah! If you are sensitive to noise, bring earplugs. You will thank me for this advice. 

2nd of November: all the events in the city continue. You can continue looking at the altars, attending the exhibitions, catching up with the downtown muerteadas, and definitely head to La Plaza de la Danza to check out the sand tapestries, for which there is a contest too.

Usually, on this day, there is a big concert (for a fee) at the city’s convention center. You could check it out. 

What do you think? Are you ready to take on your Oaxaca Day of the Dead experience? 

The San Agustín Etla muerteada: read this before you go

The muerteada at San Agustín Etla on the night of 1 November is the one everybody has seen photos of. It is also now the most regulated event of the whole season, and the rules changed while most guides were not looking

Under the community’s own reglamento:

It costs 1,000 pesos to take part. That applies to anyone who joins the comparsa in costume or makeup without prior authorisation, at any point in the night.

It costs 1,000 pesos to film or photograph. Same rate. Professional photographers and videographers also need accreditation in advance. Refusing to pay is grounds for being removed.

The comparsa is men only. The community’s stated reason is avoiding what it calls incidentes de género.

The entrances to the community close at 19:00 on 1 November. The muerteada itself gets going around 22:00 and the convergence at the end runs to about 09:30 the next morning.

Alcohol sales stop at 23:00.

Participants have to wear their assigned costume and identifier the whole time, and organizers can remove anyone causing disorder.

None of this makes San Agustín Etla a bad night out. It is still one of the most extraordinary things you will see in Mexico. But go knowing that you are a paying guest at somebody else’s event, not a participant, and that the fee is not a scam. They introduced it because the village was absorbing thousands of outsiders and getting nothing back.

If you would rather not pay, or you want something less commercial, go to a different village. Villa de Etla, Soledad Etla and San Pablo Etla all hold their own muerteadas on the same nights; they are free, and several of them feed you. Locals will tell you the same thing.

How to Dress for Day of the Dead

This one is tricky.

As time passes and the celebration becomes more and more popular, as with everything, it has the tendency to become something that isn’t, and that happens due to external influences. 

For context, the famous Catrina and painted faces are icons of Day of the Dead festivities, but they are modern icons; when we talk about the tradition’s solemnity, no costumes or face paint are involved. 

So, please, dress normally.

In my experience, Oaxaca’s weather in October and November has been dry, warm during the day, and chilly in the evening, so jeans, leggings, comfortable shoes, shirts, sweaters, and jackets are a good dress code.

The “later” that you go (meaning after midnight) to the cemeteries, the colder it will get, so keep that in mind. 

Do not wear costumes to the vigils, please. You will see people who have painted their faces, and you will see people in costumes, but that is because they didn’t do proper research, and their tour company didn’t tell them better. 

Please leave the painted faces and the costumes for the comparsas. Wear your best costume during those events and during any event in the city as well. 

What to eat & drink during Day of the Dead in Oaxaca

Really, except for tamales and Pan de Muerto, there is nothing extra special to eat during Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca, which is already the best culinary destination in Mexico. 

Oaxacan food is so traditional and tied to every festivity that mole, enchiladas, memelas, hen broth, and sweet bread are also part of what people eat this time of year. 

And to drink, well, coffee, hot chocolate and mezcal, of course. 

We have a special drink called “Atole”. It is a drink made with milk and corn, and it is available in different flavors, so if you can, try it too. 

A very important tradition during the cemetery vigil is that local families bring the deceased’s favorite food to share with everyone, so please, if you are there and you are offered a plate of food, a tamal, a cup of coffee or a shot of mezcal, take it! That will be a great experience for you!

Día de los Muertos “Do’s and Don’ts” – Tips for celebrating Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca

Oaxaca Day of the Dead: what to do

• Book your hotel in advance
• Arrange your taxis or tour companies in advance, after proper research 
• Arrive before the 28th of October
• Stay downtown 
• Visit the cemeteries, all that you possibly can 
• Take pictures of the graveyards, but ask for permission if you sense you could potentially be disruptive. Please don’t use flash. 
• Ask questions to the local families (respectfully)
• See as many altars in the city as possible
• Take part of many local events
• Jump, dance, hug, and take pictures during the muerteada and dress up or paint your face
• Drink mezcal  
• Accept a gift in the form of food or drinks from the families. 
• Read in advance about the celebration and the tradition
• Take care of your stuff ALL THE TIME
• Have a cellphone or have a form of communication locally

Oaxaca Day of the Dead: what not to do

• Don’t choose the cheapest face painting option; your face will thank you
• Don’t wear costumes or paint your face for a vigil
• Don’t drink at the cemeteries’ vigils, even if you see others, mainly Mexican people, doing it. 
• Don’t take photos of people or tombstones if you see that they are grieving (it means it is a recent death)
• Don’t haggle or bargain. Make sure you are getting a fair rate, but please DO NOT bargain

How to be a good guest at Día de Muertos

Oaxaca is having an argument about this, and if you come, you are part of it.

In July 2026, more than a hundred people marched through the city against gentrification and mass tourism, timed to the opening of Guelaguetza. Thirteen per cent of residents of the historic center were displaced between 2010 and 2020. Water reaches some neighborhoods on a 90-day cycle. And every year around Todos Santos, local cultural workers write the same piece about plastic marigolds, imported decorations and graves being decorated for photographs rather than for the dead.

None of that means you should not come. Día de Muertos in Oaxaca is not a performance staged for visitors, and most families are genuinely glad to explain what they are doing. But there is a difference between a guest and an audience, and the line is not hard to find.

• Ask before you photograph a person or a grave. Every time. Not once, at the gate. Each time.
• No flash in a cemetery, ever.
• If a family is grieving rather than celebrating, put the camera away. You can tell.
• Do not drink at the vigils, even when you see others doing it.
• Do not wear a costume or face paint to a vigil. The muerteada is the night for that. The vigil is not.
• Accept food or mezcal if a family offers it. Refusing is the rude option. Accepting is the whole point.
• Do not bargain. Pay the asking price for the pan de muerto, the flowers, the taxi and the face paint.
• Spread out. Xoxocotlán has become the cemetery every tour bus goes to. There are half a dozen others holding the same vigil with a tenth of the crowd, and the families there are not yet tired of us.

Oaxaca travel tips (in a nutshell)

Where to stay in Oaxaca

When you look for a place to stay in Oaxaca, I have already mentioned that you should stay downtown, but very close to it, we have 2 more neighborhoods that are also central, beautiful, and that have a lot of events happening in them.

I mean the Xochimilco and Jalatlaco neighborhoods. Both are within walking distance.

A couple of hotels that I recommend in Oaxaca are: 

• Oaxaca real: located on Manuel Garcia Virgil, one of the main central streets of downtown. Colonial-like, fairly priced, good service, and comfortable. I have stayed there many times, and I have never had a complaint.  Check rates and availability

• Parador del Dominico: very well located, also colonial feel, small boutique hotel. Clean, comfortable, and kind service. Fairly priced and located close to the Convento de Santo Domingo and many great restaurants. Check rates and availability

• Hostal de Las Americas (for the budget traveler): This was my first accommodation in Oaxaca city. I really enjoyed it. They have a great breakfast and the staff is friendly. They offer clean shared rooms with their own bathroom and also private rooms. Perfectly located. Check rates and availability

• Casa Santo Tomas: Small, modern, only suites boutique hotel also very centrally located. It is a bit pricier than the other ones but it has great service, a good restaurant, an art gallery and a mezcal bar. Check rates and availability

How to get to Oaxaca

BY PLANE: There are a few direct flights from the USA that connect to Mexico City. The Mexican airlines Volaris and Aeromexico also have several routes from major cities in the country. A flight from Mexico City to Oaxaca Airport is only 1 hour away. 

BY CAR: It’s an easy 6- 7-hour non-stop drive on the Puebla – Mexico toll highway.  If you choose this option, make sure you stop for a bit in Puebla; you won’t regret it. 

BY BUS: Many buses depart from Mexico City to Oaxaca City. The mainline is ADO and they have really comfortable buses. The journey takes 7 to 8 hours. You can purchase tickets online, and there are routes from other cities too, like San Cristóbal de las Casas, Puebla, etc. 

Where to eat in Oaxaca

Food in Oaxaca has been a constant topic for us, and, well, we already know why, but, besides a MUST-visit to the 20 de Noviembre market for tlayudas, sweet bread, hot chocolate or the meats alley, you can also take the time to enjoy a meal at these places: 

Mayordomo: The restaurant is famous for its chocolate. The restaurant is fun and inexpensive. They have a large menu with local delicacies from central Oaxaca, including the 7 moles and chapulines. 

Las Quince Letras: a lovely, authentic Oaxacan food restaurant also downtown. Their menu is very broad as well and very creative. The prices are fair, the decoration is really pretty, and the atmosphere is fun. I enjoy their service thoroughly. 

Mezquite: a fun and creative fusion-style restaurant with amazing cocktails and a wonderful rooftop. It’s on the pricier side, but I highly recommend it! 

Zandunga: a finer dining experience with a higher price, but totally worth it. The food is Oaxacan as well but from the region of the “Istmo”. The region is mountainous but is influenced by the Gulf of Mexico coast. One of my favorite restaurants by far.

Final thoughts on Día de Muertos in Oaxaca

I hope I have not only transmitted some knowledge on Mexico’s Day of the Dead tradition but also really piqued your interest and made you want to add the experience to your Mexico bucket list right away!

I also hope that the reason you are interested is that you want to live the solemnity and witness such a rich heritage of our pre-Hispanic cultures. 

Día de los Muertos in Oaxaca or anywhere in Mexico is my favorite tradition. I love it even if, while at home, I don’t actively celebrate it. 

The Day of the Dead in Mexico is a celebration that encompasses so many ancestral and sacred elements that we must continue to preserve it and protect it so it is one that can still live on for generations and generations. 

We must remember that this very important tradition of ours was added to the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and so, we must make sure it stays worthy of this recognition. 

Having lived the Day of the Dead festivities for 4 years in a row in Oaxaca had me struggling with mixed feelings. 

On one side, I was incredibly happy and proud about sharing everything that I knew about it with my travelers, but I was very sad that hundreds of people visiting had not received a DON’T DO list and so, the solemnity of the celebration had started turning into a massive, crazy party that didn’t help the experience. 

I believe that together we can preserve the richness of the tradition and so I ask you to please visit, share, take photos, but talk to people, share the DO and DON’T list and call on your travel agents or tour operators or even on the local businesses that you notice are moving away from the real meaning of the celebration. 

The Oaxaca Day of the Dead is a wonderful event, and it will probably be great this year and will be back in full force next year. Help us keep it real!

Where else to celebrate Día de Muertos in Mexico

In previous years, Mexico City has become, since 2016, one of the best places to experience Día de los Muertos, thanks to the amazing Día de los Muertos parade inspired by a James Bond movie. 

The parade is not part of the region’s Día de los Muertos tradition, but it is fun, full of color, and features elaborate customs that impress everyone.

The parade has run every year since, usually on the last Saturday of October or on the 31st itself, and Mexico City announces the route a few weeks beforehand.

Also, for many years now, Cancun and Playa del Carmen have become popular cities to enjoy the festivities thanks to the “Festival de tradiciones de Vida y Muerte” organized by the Xcaret group.

To be honest, I don’t usually sponsor these kinds of places, but the festival is really beautiful and full of art.

Plus, if you are in the area and you are looking for really cultural events and supporting the local communities, you can look for options in destinations like Valladolid or Felipe Carrillo Puerto, which are both near Cancun and Playa del Carmen and that offer a real display of the tradition as it is lived by the Mayan culture. 

Another amazing place to experience the tradition is the state of Michoacán.

The capital city, Morelia, holds events (in normal circumstances) and different manifestations of the celebration, but mainly, the best place to be for Día de los Muertos is the small town of Pátzcuaro and the nearby villages like Janitzio and Tzintzunzan.

Lastly, another fantastic area where you can witness this tradition is La Huasteca Potosina and San Luis Potosí specifically.

I have actually been there before as well, and, if you ask me, this one is the destination where the tradition is very untouched.

One of my best travel experiences was living in a smaller village near San Luis with a local family during Día de los Muertos. 

But that story is for another day…

Oaxaca Day of the Dead FAQs

When exactly is Day of the Dead in Oaxaca in 2026?

The core days are Sunday 1 and Monday 2 November. In Oaxaca, the celebration starts around 27 October, and the biggest nights are 31 October, when the vigils happen at Xoxocotlán and Atzompa, and 1 November, when the muerteadas run in the Etla valley.

How many days do I need?

Four at the very least, arriving no later than 30 October. Five or six is better, because the events are spread across villages and you cannot do two vigils in one night.

Do I need to book a tour?

No. Everything except the ticketed events is free to walk into. A guide is worth it for the village cemeteries if you do not speak Spanish, and for the transport if you do not want to negotiate taxis at 2am.

Is it too late to book accommodation?

For 2026, it is late but not hopeless. Most people book three to four months ahead. Look at the Etla villages and the neighborhoods outside the centro, and consider the week after 2 November, when the muerteadas are still running, and the city has emptied.

Can I take photographs?

Yes, with permission, without flash, and not of people who are grieving. At San Agustín Etla filming costs 1,000 pesos.

Is Oaxaca the best place in Mexico for Day of the Dead?

For a first time, yes, and I say that as someone who has seen it in several parts of the country. Michoacán around Pátzcuaro is the other serious answer. Mexico City has the biggest parade but the least tradition behind it, since the parade was invented in 2016 after a James Bond film.

Is it safe?

Yes. The crowds at the vigils are families. Watch your bag in the crush, arrange your ride back before you need it, and do not walk out of a village cemetery alone at 3am.